Scotland Highlands Road Trip

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Just got back from a two-week trip to the Scottish Highlands and Islands and now know why the ancestors left.  As Robert Burns described, it is a land where "savage winds tumble over savage mountains, thinly overspread with savage flocks, which starvingly support as savage inhabitants."   The inhabitants seemed nice enough, but the rest of the description is pretty accurate.   

Flew into London then caught a train up to the capitol Edinburgh where I met up with my parents, son, and brother who had arrived a few days earlier.   Stayed in a hotel in middle of the old section, full of cobblestone streets and old stone buildings and dominated by Edinburgh Castle.  Wish I had more time to check out the old city and museums, but we had to head out the next day to begin the tour of the Highlands and Islands in a rented eight passenger van.

Edinburgh.jpg

We crossed over into the Highlands and to the Isle of Skye on the west coast.   Rented an old house in "downtown" Portree and used that as a base for two days to explore the island. Checked out the well preserved Castle Dunvegan, the much less preserved ruins of another castle on a windswept cliff overlooking the sea and abandoned in the 1700s purportedly because of a haunting (I suspect the foul weather could have contributed to it), and various glens, hamlets, and seascapes.  We also hiked up the Storr, a steep outcropping which featured unusual basalt formations:

Storr.jpg

We then headed over to Inverness for two days where we checked out more castles, took a cruise on Loch Ness, wandered around the old section of town and hit some pubs, saw a 2000-year-old pagan burial ground, and visited Culloden Battlefield, where Bonnie Prince Charles and the Highlanders made their final fateful stand against the English Redcoats in 1746.  Here are some pictures from the Inverness area:

Loch Ness.jpg

 Inverness Graveyard.jpg

My parents then headed back to the States, my son took off to London and Rome, and my brother and I headed north in the van for five nights of camping.  We took a ferry to the Orkney Islands (saw a killer whale on the way), which has a decidedly Norse feel.  Spent a couple nights on the windswept, treeless islands and visited a number of archeological sites, including a 2000 year-old Pictish fort, various pagan standing stones, burial chambers, and ceremonial sites, the ruins of an old Viking outpost, and Skara Brae - an 5,000-year-old village that was unearthed by a storm after being buried for many millennia, revealing one of the best preserved neolithic sites in Europe.  Here is a picture of a 5,000-year-old living room, complete with built in furniture:

Skara Brae.jpg

After returning from Orkney, we paid a visit to the ruins of the old family stronghold, Castle Varrich, perched on a hill overlooking the Kyle of Tounge on the north coast.   There wasn't much left of it, but we spent the next two days working our way down a single track road on the northwest coast, through an amazing stark landscape of mountains, lochs, ruined castles, and sheep (lots of sheep).   We then camped up in the Cairngorm Mountains, where the savage winds finally subsided, only to be replaced by another Highland savage - swarms of midges.   Finished up the trip camping near Long Loch north of Glasgow and then took a train down to London for an evening before flying back yesterday.

Sea Stacks.jpg

Highlands.jpg    

Great pictures and stories Ken.

sounds amazing!

I just love reading about your adventures. 

Way cool.

Beautiful places and thank you for sharing your travels. I've been to the North and West of Scotland, thought the Isle of Skye was pretty special. I loved taking the train through the Highlands, too. I was sorry it was so difficult for me to understand Scottish "English".

Wonderful travel story and beautiful photos, Ken D.

 

This makes me want to sort through my Scotland photos - I spent a semester in Glasgow in early 1990.  Cold, dark and wet up there.  Great people, but they wouldn't hesitate to provide a "Glasgow kiss" to any deserving recipient.

 

Share more photos if you are so inclined, Ken.

>>>> Cold, dark and wet up there

It was certainly cold and wet, but being the summer solstice, it wasn't dark at all.  It fact, you could see fine at 11:00 PM and it only started to get dark around 11:30 and by 4:00 AM, the sun was up again.   Can't imagine the reverse in winter.

>>>>Share more photos if you are so inclined

Ardvrek Castle in the northwest Highlands:

Ardvrek Castle.jpg

Standing Stones on Orkney Island:

Standing Stones.jpg

Castle Dunvegan on Isle of Skye:

Dunvegan.jpg

Downtown Portree on Isle of Skye (taken at 11:30 PM):

Portree at 1130.jpg

Orkney Island traffic Jam:

Orkeny Island Traffic Jam.jpg

And a Nessie Sighting!  (if this doesn't prove the existence of the mythical beast, I don't know what does):

Nessie Sighting - II.jpg

 

Well tanks! for tea invite laddie......

Thanks for sharing

Thanks Ken!

 

You're making me regret that I never made it north of the Perth > Oban line.

 

 

I was in the North in mid-June, too. It was light so amazingly late!

Nice. Did you "wild camp" as they call it, or stay in campgrounds? We have pondered doing that, but only with a van. Because the midges. Love castles but mostly that ancient shit, stone circles and what not. Did not know about that 5k old place, pretty cool.

>>>>Did you "wild camp" as they call it, or stay in campgrounds? 

We ended up just staying in the "caravan parks."   We were playing it by ear with spotty wi-fi and I guess you need to apply online beforehand for permits to "wild camp."  We also couldn't figure out where the bothies were from the websites, but considering the foul weather and our busy days, it was nice to be able to pull up into a "caravan park" at the end of the day, take a hot shower, plug into wi-fi to plan the next days travels, grab a pint at a nearby pub, and sleep in a warm, dry van.  Most of the "caravan parks" we stayed in also had great views, like these:

View from the caravan park on Orkney:

Orkney Caravan Park.jpg

From the park in Durness:

 Duress Caravan Park.jpg

 Very few places are like the western US, where you can just drive down any dirt road in the National Forest and pitch a tent wherever you feel like it.  And considering the rain, wind, and midges (when its not windy), I imagine tent camping in the Highlands would not be really comfortable.   That being said, I did see a tent pitched in a woodland park near Portree and a Slovakian couple we picked up hitchhiking mentioned how they had pitched a tent up on a hill outside Ullapool.   

I knew it isn't easy to wild camp there and I think Scotland is the only place in Britain that even allows it at all. Here's to an end of the day pint. How were the pubs?

This Scotsman thanks ye for sharing. 

>>>How were the pubs?

We went to quite a few, both in the cities and in the country.   They had the obligatory snooker tables and some had live music (like the one in Durness) or DJs (like one in Inverness), but the interesting thing was the ales were generally much weaker than what you find in the US.  All the taps are marked with ABV and the majority hovered around 4.4% with some down in the 3.2 range.  The max was generally about 5.5%.  The hardiest brews we found were from Orkney Brewing, which has a "Skull Splitter" coming it at around 8% ABV.  However, you sure got an "honest pint," which runs around £2 - 4 depending on whether you were in the city or in the country.   The pubs were the only place where I had any real problem understanding the locals, with the exception of the caretaker at the caravan park we stayed at on the last night outside Glasgow.   Could only make out about every fourth word and later saw him sitting in his Land Rover with a half empty bottle of vodka.

One of the barmaids at the pub in Durness next to the park also appeared not to understand a word I said and kept messing up my order.  I thought it was because of the Scottish dialect, but I later learned from the Slovokian couple we picked up hitchhiking that the owner of that pub only hires Slovaks because, in his opinion, the Scotts were "lazy."   I guess that will change once Brexit kicks in.  

Great pics, looks beautiful.

Thanks Ken.

You, Roshambo(sp) and Johnny D post the the best travel threads.. Thanks for sharing.

 

Has The National Enquirer contacted you yet on the monster sighting?

What the hell are midges???

Thankeess --

MMr.  Loch - Poorland Kenn.

(That's my best Scot - accent imitation)

Always love the travelogues and Photos.  Great Haunted Castles and such.

And please continue to report the "Midges" or whichever local Pest,  and the Cure for those.

It might be the CandleWax,  it might be the DEET.,

Thanks for this great thread Ken.  I lived in Aberdeen for a bit in the mid seventies.  My first wife and I traveled all over the south and east portions of the country. Very gray but also very beautiful in it's own way. Mostly saw castles and Douglas history. I now see where we should have gone on a few of those excursions.

What the hell are midges???<<<

Think Joba Chamberlain, Lance.

Great pictures, that looks like a fantastic trip. 

"Midge" is ancient gaelic for motorboat

Amazing pics and stories!

I traveled around the Highlands and Glasgow( couldn't understand a word that was said to me, lol)

Family I was with was looking for a property to buy.

Stayed 2 summers outside of Edinburgh, in Cramond Village- fun times!!!

Very jealous, this is one of my bucket list items.

Orwell lived on one of the islands up there after the war.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for posting these great images, Ken. 

Have always wanted to visit Scotland, and now, even more.

Now, on to Portland's crazy busy summer.

Glad yer yamshacksh shurvived the bramblesh, Laddie.

So the question on everyone's mind...

How was the Haggis?

>>>>How was the Haggis?

I don't eat commercially harvested animal products, but had the vegetarian haggis.  I was a bit underwhelmed.  Just a pile of faux sausage stuffed between a pile of mashed potatoes and mashed turnips.  Not bad, but very much like what I cook at home on day-to-day basis.  The real haggis was on just about every menu I saw and was served up in many different forms and styles.

DId you try any cool scotch that doesn't get exported to the US? 

>>>>DId you try any cool scotch that doesn't get exported to the US? 

Got a couple of bottles of "whisky", but I am not much of a liquor drinker to begin with so not sure if it is stuff you can get over here.  Funny, we did a blind taste test between a more expensive single malt and a cheaper blended type and I actually liked the cheaper one better.  Here is the cheaper bottle that won out:

Whisky.jpg

 

Did you guys cut a bunch of pimento olives in half and put them in scotch? What is that?

Also, it's islands, was there bomb fresh and smoked fish and winklebottoms or some shit? Muttonloaf sandwiches? What's to eat besides fake or real haggis?

Your pics are cool, thanks for posting!  On our trip last year we made it as far as Edinburgh which was a lot of fun.

>>Stayed in a hotel in middle of the old section, full of cobblestone streets and old stone buildings and dominated by Edinburgh Castle.  

Sounds similar to where we stayed- our view of the castle was spectacular.

 >>>>>Dunvegan

Now I'm a carnivore.