Endless Summer 2

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Cool Surf Flick

check it out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiZb9uBV4GE

not a pat o' fan

Turtle I'm Not a Pat o Fan either.

why they picked him to be on the WSL Crew is beyond me - he sucked at Hurley too.

I agree. 
Not a fan of either of those clowns.
Overall. way too campi for my taste.

Check this vid out.

Gets better and better....

Really fires me up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiAKJQnHqLA

That is a really cool video. I like the song they had playing as well. 

Is riding a barrel the best feeling you get in surfing, like being one with the water?

 Is riding a barrel the best feeling you get in surfing, like being one with the water? <<< possibly BK

78629.jpg

Surfer stalked by Emoji.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWAz1ca_wPE

 

Check this surfing vid - Tasmanian surfer rides a wave for a minute and a half.

>>Is riding a barrel the best feeling you get in surfing, like being one with the water? <<<

It might be different for everyone, but for me, It really depends depends on the wave and the spot.

Sometimes it is pretty groovy..

Other times its like escaping the jaws of a giant shark.

Almost always seems like some kind of crazy physics and magic trick.

Riding a slippery surfboard inside a hole in the wild ocean. Lol

 

Don;t get barreled very often these daze. Of course it's great when I do, but I thi nk I actually prefer swooping around on an open face. When you're in the tube your options are limited - you either make it or not - it's mostly up to the wave, unless you're Slater. My endorphins get tickled a bit more by getting a long wave where you have to make decisions about where to go on the wave that will get you to the end .

But it's all groovy - sometimes just being out there with the moving water and the flora and fauna is enough to blow your mind.

pretty much bk.

although i live in the mush capital of the world...barrels are hard to come by.

I think I need to do a full week surf vacation. A day every 5 years isn't enough to gain any sense of proficiency. There's so much timing involved, and that can only come from being on the water and getting to know and understand swells and waves. When do I turn, when do I paddle slow, when do I paddle fast, when do I pop up? The answer to each of those questions can only come through repetition, and until I can answer them, it's a total crapshoot as to whether I can actually catch a wave.

It's really different than when I learned to Windsurf. Although there's some feel to understand the wind, it's a lot more technical, like sailing. It's still a steep learning curve that takes hours of practice to understand, but it's feel vs technicality.

The Windsurfing zen, for me, was harnessing in and hitting a plane at 10+ knots. Balance just right, hands off the boom, lean back and be engulfed by the spray.

Sometimes I'm not sure why I live so far from the water!

"....it's a way of life"