HVAC Issues. No heat upstairs.

Forums:

Woke up today and my heat was blowing cold air. Thought perhaps a dirty filter might have caused the unit to overheat and shut down. I changed the filter, but still blowing cold. Tried to reset the unit, following the instructions on the panel, but no luck. It looks as if the burners will not ignite, and this system has no pilot light. 

Luckily my downstairs unit is still functioning or I would be very cold.

 

Any thoughts on a possible solution?

 

Thank you in advance. 

There's this Dude in Florida,  who can answer all of your questions.  Grateful Air in Stuart,  Florida.

He posts here as T / Flashback so that's the same fellow.

Coincidentally,  I have Firewood on hand if you just need enough to get by until you reset the breaker on your furnace wink it's the little red button.

What kind of heaters? It sounds like you have different units on both floors. 

 

Thanks, Stu, but no fireplace here 

BK...

It's a carrier unit, model 58STA090.

Yes, I have two units,  one in my attic and one in the laundry room on the first floor.

I have nothing for you. Have you asked Dr Google?

Also, curious as to why 2 furnaces. I've never heard of that. 

 

^Dr Google, and my wallet, leads me to hope it's the igniter.

 

Two systems are efficient, given the size of the house. Plus it helps in times like this.

Gotcha'! Good luck!

After the flood it was suggested that everyone move boilers above the flood levels to "save money if it happens again."  Between reinforcing the attic to accommodate the weight of the boiler, and moving all the water systems up 3 flights, it would have cost about $75,000. A boiler is $10k. Everyone took a hard pass on that idea.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=58sta090+manual&t=h_&ia=web

I looked there and dozens of links appeared.

Perhaps the information you seek is in the Carrier repair manual,  or another source.

When my natural gas furnace failed,  it was the "Thermocouple" a cheap part.  Might take a few tools to replace.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=thermocouple+replacement&t=h_&ia=web

I was renting then,  so the landlord covered it.  Maybe 70 bucks w/ parts and labor.
Figure about $125 if you can't figure it out.

 

Stu, looking like it could be a couple things, igniter or the high limit switch, both pretty cheep. Funny thing, I recently replaced the high limit switch in a space heater I have 

 

BK, the flood was another motivator, I'm hoping never to be displaced again. 

You out of oil  ?

Thermostat turned to AC ?

You try opening the small door on your burner,  at the end of your fuel line and relighting the pilot ? 

 

^Natural gas

No

No pilot 

Thanks away, Ras

Careful with that gas man. Consider a hotel till a pro checks it and you're sure what's up. Don't be blowin up now

Have you tried to google the exact problem or youtube?

I have fixed many things without calling a serviceman. Fixed my oil burner with Google and Youtube.  Fixed my rider mower by googling the problem and trying different stuff and finally finding the problem and fixed it. Took a few weeks but it worked. Of course the solution was nothing super technical or dangerous to me or the machine. Though the mower required a lot ot taking off parts and back and forth and trying with fail until I finally figured it out. Still runs today and that was 2 years ago..

 

Thanks Ras, closed the valve to the unit. Fairly certain it's one of the two parts mentioned, my only concern would be a crack in the heat exchange. However, I have a guy coming by tomorrow to take a look. 

Hey if you have to go to work at a real job,  it's worth your $$ to pay someone else to fix it.

I replaced elements on my electric Hot Water heater a couple times.  Any semi-skilled ape can do that,  but it takes time and effort.  First you have to cut off the electric source,  then drain it.  Since mine's in the cellar,  I have to take a long hose,  run it down the hill, and create a siphon.

The other problem was that who(m)ever installed that thing had the drain valve against the cellar wall 1/2" from the dirt floor.  Difficult to connect the drain hose with that setup. Last time an element went out,  I just replaced the whole unit,  put it up on some bricks,  and made sure the drainvalve was accessible.

Old one was a Bradford - White model from around 1980.  Dudes at the plumbing supply shop were astounded that such a thing still existed.  They sold me the elements for about ten bucks,  after digging around in dusty shelves a while.

 

I am wrong.  Went back up in the attic and to check out the led codes, telling me it's the pressure switch. More expensive than the other parts mentioned,  but not unreasonably expensive, about $50. Should be good to go as soon as I get the part.

It's only money.

Whats the temp over there this morning ? Your dog a pupsicle ? Was it a 3 dog nite ?  

 

Was about 28 overnight. Had my downstairs unit cranking all night. Plus I had a space heater in my room. Dogs were fine. Had to move my birds downstairs though. 

If you have a multimeter, you can check the ignition sequence to see which part is not functional. 

 

Damn, throwing 2 codes. Roll out switch as well. 

The pilot doesn't light at all -- even momentarily? 

 

 

No pilot light. All done, the LEDs were correct. Toasty warm again. My buddy's brother came by with the parts, he even installed the for me...he's an hvac guy. 

Good to hear!  Surprised the pilot didn't light then shut off once the system cycled through to the pressure switch.  

 

Paging Grateful Air Conditioning..

Water drain clogged? That shuts mine down when I don't keep up with cleaning the pipe. It has a switch in the pan that turns off unit when the water gets to high. Not sure if that is called a pressure switch or not. 

Hope you got that stuff running nicely again,  Mr. Lumber.
Keep us updated and stay Toasty laugh

 

Toasty warmth continues, Stu. Pressure switch and roll out/limit switch.  Had a new line run today, replaced the old steel line. Had to wait around all day for the gas company to come and turn the meter back on.  

Thanks for the input all.

 

And this is why I recommend everyone to install a Wood-Stove.

Preferably a large one that can handle 24" Lengths.

That size is the most efficient for me to split, load and deliver.  Less carbon footprint for the Global community.

When the modern technology malfunctions,  the Oak and Ash burns nice,  and heats the Family.